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We have always loved the look of cattle or livestock style fencing, (we assume you do too if you are reading this), so we decided to include this style in our garden plans. The benefits of this fence are that you can see through it [to admire the garden of course] and it also gives you the ability to grow vining plants up it during the growing season.

This guide will break down the steps to creating a simple garden fence using hog wire. We give you a list of the necessary tools, along with a shopping list for 50 feet of fence. This whole project can be completed in a day or two (depending on your skill level and extra help) and costs less than $300*. You will, of course, want to customize this fence to suit your needs but this tutorial will give you a head start for getting your new fence in the ground.  

To give you a feel for what we built (so you can determine how you may need to edit), our fence posts are spaced 4 feet apart and are cut to 54 inches long (to include 12 inches buried in the ground).  Please note, we are in Northern California, so you may need to adjust how far into the ground your posts are buried based on your climate.  For example, if you live in a climate that freezes you will need to bury the posts below the frost line to prevent heaving. For the lumber we chose to use redwood because we love the natural look and its naturally ability to resist rot. You can also substitute cedar for the same rot resistant qualities or use pressure treated lumber. Just be aware that pressure treated lumber may require staining, otherwise it has a tendency to turn a greyish-green as it ages.

To get you started, here is our list of tools and materials:

*note: all linked items are products we use and love

Material List (for 50 feet of fence):

• (6) 4”x4”x10’ Lumber (1 per two fence posts)

• (9) 2”x4”x12’ Lumber

• Exterior Decking screws

• 36” x 50’ Galvanized wire fencing.

• Gate Hardware (one per gate installed)

• Marking Paint (or flags)

• 3 bags of Gravel

Tools Required:

• Miter / Chop Saw

• Screw gun

• Drill

• Staple gun & 9/16” staples

• Post hole digger (Gas auger recommended)

• 48” Level

• Wire Cutter (or Angled Dykes or Snips)

• Kreg Jig (optional)

Step 1 – Measure and Mark

Measure and mark the locations of your post holes. We used marking paint for this but feel free to use stakes, flags, or simply dig a small hole. Four-foot spacing is ideal but does not have to be exact as you will be attaching the hog wire to the backside of the fence.

We found it easiest to start by marking your gate location and continue to mark your fence posts off of it.

We chose to do a 36” gate because it is a great size for moving a wheelbarrow or lawnmower in and out. If your gate is too big you may potentially have sagging issues later on.

Step 2 – Get Digging!

Now using a post hole digger you’re going to want to dig those holes to about 14” to 18” deep [unless you live in the frozen North, then you will need to get below the frost line] and 8” wide. Depending on your soil, this is where spending the money to rent a gas-powered auger will save you a lot of time and sore muscles. Me, being the cheap-o, used a manual post hole digger to dig through our rock hard clay soil and greatly regretted that the next day at work. If you’re going to use a manual post hole digger, I would also recommend a post hole shovel to widen the sides or break up the clay soil as needed.

Step 3 – Cut and Set Fence Posts

Once your holes are dug, cut the posts to 54”.  Again, in our climate we planned to bury 12” and have 42” showing, so adjust accordingly.  Using a pencil, mark 42” on the post to mark how deep to bury the post. Place a few inches of gravel underneath the post and around the base (this will help with drainage and prolong the life of your fence). Making sure the post is plumb, start to fill and pack dirt around the post. It is very important to tightly pack the soil around the post to ensure the posts do not move later on.  You can do this simply with your foot, the end of the level, or the back end of a shovel, whatever works to get that soil packed tight! Repeat the process and move down the fence line.  Make sure to level each post off the one before it rather than the entire line of posts. Depending on the grade of the area you may need to dig the holes deeper (or cut the post shallower) to make the fence level, just be sure to have a minimum of 12” of wood buried in the soil for stability.

Q: Should I use concrete? A: We chose not to because concrete can create a shelf for water to sit up against the fence post and speed up wood rot. Also, being a wire fence, it will not have a large wind load so we were not too concerned with the adding concrete in order to stabilize the structure.

Step 4 – Install the Top Bar

Now that we have the fence posts set, it’s time to install the top bar. Measure and cut your 2”x4” to the necessary length. When tying two top bars together, screw in the end of one to halfway across of the 4”x4” post and start the next on the other half. Be sure to drill pilot holes before screwing in the deck screws to prevent the lumbar from splitting [especially on the ends where this is more likely to occur].

Step 5 – Install the Bottom Support

First, measure and mark 36” from the top bar down the fence post. This is where you will tie in the top of the bottom support. Keeping the bottom 2”x4” support off the ground will help prevent standing water from being directly on the wood. Next, measure and cut the inside width between each post and drill angled pilot holes prior to placing in the support. [If you really want the screw to be recessed you can use a Kreg jig - we use this one]. If your working alone, consider starting one screw on each side of the 2”x4” as this will help when installing. Finally, finish by screwing in 2 deck screws on each side of the support down the line of fence posts.

Step 6 – Roll Out and Staple in Wire Fencing

Now for the piece-de-resistance. The wire fencing should be rolled out the length of your fencing run and straightened out [Trying to hold and staple in rolled fencing without straightening it out will prove to be quite a chore].  We had our rolled fencing laid out flat overnight prior to installation.  For each section, I measured the outside length and cut the wire to the specified length prior to installing. Ideally with help, hold the fencing halfway up the top bar and halfway down the bottom support. Start stapling down the line and pulling out the slack. Stapling directly behind a vertical wire will help keep the fencing taught as you move down the line. Finish by cutting and installing panels of wire.

Step 7 – Build the Gate

First, determine the direction of swing and don’t forget to account for how tall your gate needs to be to clear whatever is underneath it. Take down your measurements for the vertical and horizontal lengths of your desired gate then cut and assemble the rectangle gate. Cut and assemble a diagonal support to strengthen the gate. Attach gate hinges to the frame, measure and cut wire fencing to gate size, attach with staple gun. Level and attach hinges to fence post.  

And just like that your fence is complete!

To review:

1. Do your homework and prep work before you begin the project. Measure the space, make your shopping list (or use ours!), and mark where each post will go before you dig to include your gate or access point. This is a good time to roll out your hog wire and let it adjust to being “flat” vs tightly wound in the roll your purchased.

2. Start by digging and setting each fence post before you bury them in. This will save you in case you come across anything buried in the dirt that may cause you to to adjust fire.

3. Level each post off the ones next to it (rather than the beginning or end post) and tightly bury and pack the soil around each post.

4. Set the yop rail, and then the bottom rails.

5. Staple in the hog panel material.

6. Build your gate.

7. Sit back and admire your work, you did it!

Want to see more DIY inspiration? Check out our how-to guide on building a Modern Wood Pergola that matches this fence perfectly!

We are not professional carpenters and this project will take some basic knowledge of carpentry, but you can do it! Take your time and adjust as needed. We are so happy with the beautiful aesthetic that this fence adds to our yard and hope it does the same to yours. It truly defines the space between lawn and garden.

Subscribe to stay connected with us at Our Liberty House. As always, feel free to reach out to us via Instagram or email and we can help guide you through any complications or questions you have. We look forward to seeing your fences go up!

-Lucas

*Please note that the cost for your fence may vary depending on your region